For tomato water

• 10 medium vine-ripened plum tomatoes (about 2 pounds), trimmed and quartered lengthwise
• 2 tablespoons coarse kosher salt
• four 20-inch-square pieces cheesecloth
• kitchen string for tying cheesecloth sack
• 2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin

For calamari salad

• 1 pound cleaned squid
• 1 small fresh red jalapeño Chile
• 1 small fresh green jalapeño Chile
• 10 large fresh mint leaves, washed well and spun dry
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
• 1/4 cup fresh carrot juice (from about 3 large carrots , peeled, trimmed, and juiced in an electric vegetable juicer)
• 2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar*
• coarse kosher salt to taste
• cayenne to taste
• Garnish - eight 4- by 1/2 inch celery sticks

*available at specialty foods shops and some supermarkets

Make tomato water:

In a bowl combine tomatoes and salt and toss gently. Let tomatoes stand 3 hours.

In a food processor puree tomatoes and their liquid until smooth. Line a large sieve set over a deep kettle with a quadruple layer of cheesecloth and carefully pour tomato purée into center of cheesecloth. Gather sides of cheesecloth up over purée to form a large sack and, without squeezing purée, gently gather together upper thirds of cheesecloth to form a neck. Carefully tie neck securely with kitchen string, Tie sack to a wooden spoon longer than diameter of kettle and remove sieve. Put spoon across top of kettle, suspending sack inside kettle and leaving enough room underneath sack so that it will not sit in any tomato water that accumulates. Let sack hang 4 hours.

Without squeezing sack, discard cheesecloth sack and its contents and transfer 1/4 cup tomato water (there should be about 2 1/4 cups total) to a small saucepan. Sprinkle gelatin over tomato water in pan and. let soften 1 minute. Heat tomato-water mixture over low heat until warm and whisk until gelatin is dissolved. Transfer mixture to a bowl and whisk in remaining tomato water. Chill tomato water, covered, 12 hours.

Make calamari salad:

Pat squid dry. Cut squid sacs crosswise into ¾ inch rings and keep tentacles whole. Wearing rubber gloves, seed and Finely chop jalapeños. Stack mint leaves and with a sharp knife cut lengthwise into thin strips. In a large heavy skillet beat oil over high heat until hot but not smoking and sauté squid with cardamom, stirring constantly, 45 seconds, or until just opaque. immediately drain squid in a colander and cool. In a bowl toss squid with jalapeños, mint, and salt and pepper to taste.

In a small bowl whisk together carrot juice, vinegar, salt, and cayenne and transfer to a small pitcher.

Divide tomato water among 4 Martini glasses. Mound calamari salad in each glass and garnish with celery sticks. Pour carrot juice mixture over salads at the table.