This is not a gourmet item but a part of our folk cooking traditions. That is, there is not ONE single way to prepare it, or ONE single way to use it but it changes kaleidoscopically, from family to family, from region to region.

Not unlike any other information of this type, the mere fact that is passed around does something to it, changes it, adding and taking away ingredients and, according to some, making its use appropriate for one dish and not for others...

In the last few years Chimichurri has become popular in America. Some Argentine purists --actually some sorry snobs, mostly from Buenos Aires-- have been protesting, debating, accusing, doing what they do best... talking nonsensically, about the PROPER and the REAL Chimichurri, showing nothing but their vast provincialism and authoritarianism. [...Instead of feeling proud of the fact that an original recipe inspires so many new things, they go hysterical. Typical!]

This is my recipe. I got it from my family in Parana, Argentina.

Every family should have a member, an uncle would do fine, whose barbecues are the stuff of legend. My Uncle Luis is the one who pays such important services in my family. A huge man with a childish smile and a devilish sense of humor, Uncle Luis has delighted family and friends with his perfect barbecues for more than fifty years. He passed this simple recipe to me.

Feel free to experiment, please. It has the basic ingredients. Many Argentine cooks add other ingredients to it, depending on availability and regional tastes.

Replacing vinegar with lemon juice is not uncommon, and cilantro is also used at times, and white pepper, tarragon, paprika, et cetera. I add fresh oregano at times, or rosemary...

It's probable that originally Chimichurri was used only as a marinade for beef barbecued on a grill. The meats were liberally doused on it about half an hour before salting and cooking them.

We still use it as in the old times, of course. But nowadays the mixture is used to marinate all sort of meats, birds, fish and also as side dish garnish, sandwich spread, salad dressing... Some cooks mix it as chimichurri butter.

• Leaves of three bunches of Italian parsley
• 6 large cloves of garlic
• ¾ cup of virgin olive oil
• ¼ cup of red wine vinegar
• ½ spoon of dried hot red pepper flakes

Chop or process the parsley and garlic very thin. Put them in a jar with the rest of the ingredients. You may put a lid and keep it for quite a few days in the fridge.

That's it.